Coffee from the Philippines – History, Taste & Liberica | Hälla Coffee Roastery

Coffee from the Philippines: History, Liberica & The New Specialty Coffee Movement

When talking about coffee countries in Asia, the focus often falls on giants like Vietnam or Indonesia. But did you know that the Philippines has one of the world's most unique coffee cultures? It is one of the very few countries in the world that commercially grows all four main coffee varieties : Arabica , Robusta , Liberica and Excelsa .

From a golden age in the 19th century to a near total collapse due to plant diseases, the Philippines is now reclaiming its place on the coffee map. We at Hälla Kafferosteri take you on a journey through the fascinating coffee landscape of the Philippines.

Did you know? In the Philippines , Liberica coffee is locally known as Kapeng Barako (which translates to "strong man" or "stallion coffee"). It is known for its powerful, smoky, and almost floral, full-bodied aroma.

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The story: From world-leading exporter to reconstruction

Coffee was introduced to the Philippines in 1740 by Spanish Franciscan friars who planted the first trees in the province of Batangas. During the 19th century, the industry grew rapidly, and when coffee rust (a devastating fungal disease) wiped out almost all coffee plantations in Europe and America in the 1880s, the Philippines was briefly the world's fourth largest coffee exporter .

But by the end of the 19th century, coffee frost had reached the Philippines. Combined with insect infestations, it wiped out almost all production in just a few years, forcing farmers to switch to more resistant varieties such as Robusta and Liberica.

Today, a strong reconstruction is underway where the focus has shifted from mass production to sustainability, quality and microlots in specialty coffee.

The four coffee varieties & growing regions

The Philippines' varied topography – with high mountain ranges, volcanic soil and tropical climate – provides perfect conditions for different types of coffee:

1. Arabica (Northern Luzon & Mindanao)

Grown at high altitudes (1,000–1,800 m.a.s.l.) in regions such as Benguet (Cordillera Mountains) and around Mt. Apo in Mindanao. The cooler mountain landscape produces elegant and sweet beans.

2. Liberica & Excelsa (Batangas & Cavite)

The Philippines is one of the few places where Liberica is grown on a large scale. The trees grow extremely tall and the beans are significantly larger than Arabica. Excelsa, which is often considered a subspecies of Liberica, produces a complex, fruity and slightly acidic note.

3. Robusta (Southern Luzon & Mindanao)

Accounts for the largest part of total production and is mainly used locally.

The local specialty coffee boom

Just like in neighboring Thailand, Filipinos drink enormous amounts of coffee themselves. This means that demand for quality-tested Arabica and artisanally processed Liberica is very high domestically.

Young coffee farmers and roasters are working increasingly closely together to improve processing methods:

• Innovative fermentation: Experiments with anaerobic fermentation and controlled natural processes highlight completely new layers of flavor.

• Cultural heritage preservation: Efforts to save and refine the traditional Kapeng Barako (Liberica) so that it can be appreciated by specialty coffee enthusiasts worldwide.

• Traceability: Clear micro-plots where origin, farm and altitude are reported.

Flavor Profile: What does coffee from the Philippines taste like?

The taste varies greatly depending on which of the four varieties you drink:

Quick facts about coffee from the Philippines

• Cultivation altitude: 300 – 1,800 meters above sea level.

• Main varieties: Arabica (Bourbon, Typica, Catimor), Liberica, Excelsa, Robusta.

• Harvest period: December to April.

• Processing methods: Washed, Natural (sun-dried) and Honey-processed.